[TCPLemminks]

Hey guys,

So I've decided to build a new PC from scratch here in Brisbane, Aus.
However I have one problem. Aside from opening a PC to install a graphics card I have no idea what I need in a PC.

So I ask you, friends, to help me on my quest to build a PC so that I may rejoin my fellow Brotoss's in exploiting the latest patches.

I'm looking for the budget to be under $2000, and for the computer to be able to run current gen games. I prefer the cost to be $1,500 ± $350

Parts I need

• Processor (i7 2600k, i5-2500K, i7 2600, i5 2500)
• Motherboard (Asus P8Z68, P67, GB Z68XP-UD3)
• Graphics card (GTX 570/Radeon HD 6970 or better, Gigabyte GTX 570, 560ti 448 special edition)
• Sound card (ASUS Xonar DG Sound Card, ASUS Xonar DS PCI Sound Card, Creative PCI-E X-FI Xtreme Audio)
• SSD (Intel 320 Series 120GB SSD, OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD, Intel 520 Series 120GB SSD, Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD, Crucial m4, Corsair Force SATA3 Series 60GB 2.5 SSD )
• Hard Drive (1tb HDD, Seagate 2TB SATA HDD, Seagate SATA3 1TB 7200RPM 64mb Cache, WD 3.5" Blue 1TB WD10EALX SATA3 32M 7200rpm, WD BLUE 1tb RAID 0)
• RAM (8GB RAM, G.skill 8G Ripjaw 1333, G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL, 1333 G-Skill Ripjaws-X)
• DVD Drive (LGE BluRay Combo, 24x CD/DVD +RW /-RW drive, )
• Case (Coolermaster 922M, Thermaltake Chaser MK-I, Overseer RX-I, NZXT Hush H2 Classic Silent Black, Corsair 600T)
• Monitor (22" LCD, anything from Dell, Ultrasharps Dell)
• Cooler (Noctua NH-D14 PWM Cooler, , Corsair H50, Tt FRIO OCK Cooler, Corsair H100, Corsair H80)
• Speakers (Altec Lansing VS2621. )
• PSU (Thermaltake Toughpower XT 775w, Thermaltake EVO Blue 750Watt APFC Gaming PSU, Corsair TX-750 V2 750W ATX Power, Corsair HX750)

Places to get them: Umart, MSY,

Current build

• Processor: i5 2500K ($229)
• Motherboard: Asrock Z77-PRO3 ($119)
• Graphics card: Gigabyte GTX 670 ($515)
• Sound card:On board is good enough since the Z77 extreme4 has Realtek
  ALC892 (Comparison)
• SSD: Intel SSD-330 Series 120GB ($152)
• Hard drive: WD 3.5" Blue 1TB WD10EALX SATA3 32M 7200rpm HDD ($99)
• Ram: G Skill 8G(2x4G) DDR3 1600Mhz PC12800 RL 9-9-9-24(CL9D-8GBRL) ($59)
• DVD Drive: LGE BluRay Combo ($54)
• Case: Coolermaster 922M ($118)
• Monitor: DellTM ST2220L ($135 (sale))
• Speakers: Altec Lansing VS2621 2.1 ($42)
• PSU: Antec HCG 520 ($79)
• Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w Transparent 12cm ($39)
• Mechanical Keyboard: Leopold FC500R (Cherry Brown switches)($109 + $10 insurance)

Current cost: $1759 + $12 Shipping = $1,771

Recommended completed PCs: INTEL 2600K Gaming PC

P.S. I would also appreciate it if you recommend me certain brands/models for each part, as well as places near Brisbane or online where I can get them.

[TAminimat]

Im on the case.

Quick Comments

	[TA]LoSt:	lol'd
	TCPKiaSu:	LOL
	IcedTea:	I see what you did there.
	TCPLemminks:	Thou expolits in the field are well documented^^
	TheGentleman:	lol

[ikki]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

• CPU (probably don't need Quad core)

Places to get them: Umart, MSY,

P.S. I would also appreciate it if you recommend me certain brands/models for each part.

Everything is quad-core these days
Intel or AMD?
Do you need a case?

Something like this would be fine, http://www.centrecom.com.au/catalog/...9.html?sort=2a

[[TA]LoSt]

Bro, for 2k you can get a TOP of the range PC, and you'll definitely want a quad-core. You can even chuck in an SSD with that budget and your PC will be beast. ^_^

I'll let the smart people give you specifics, but aim for
An i7 of some kind
GTX 570/Radeon HD 6970 or better, you could maybe even get two depending on your other specs
Don't know about sound cards.
Get a 60/120gb SSD as well as a 1tb HDD. The 1tb HDD doesn't cost much more than like 250gb so it's definitely worth it for the extra space, and the SSD speed is noticeable.
Just get 8GB RAM, it's easily within your budget and it's better to get 8GB as in the long run newer games will still run even when your PC is getting old.

EDIT: If you build it yourself you can get it for even cheaper, therefore you can buy an extra monitor etc. as 2+ monitors is always useful. Man with that budget you can even throw in gaming mouse/keyboard/headset. :P

EDIT2: Since nicknack posted a complete suggestion, I'll do one as well. It's from an online ebay store but I got my computer from them and I can definitely vouch for speed/service/helpfulness if you have any problems. For your budget, I'd suggest this computer with some upgrades: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INTEL-Cor...t_11046wt_1397

* You can upgrade the cooling fan/heatsink if you wish, but I don't think its necessary, my computer doesn't really overheat with similar specs.
* Upgrade to P67 or Z68 Motherboard (+$39)
* Extra 60/120gb SSD (+$109/$189)
* Extra 22" LCD (+$139)

End PC:
i7 2600k @ 3.4GHz (able to be overclocked)
GTX 580 Graphics Card
8GB RAM
120gb SSD + 1tb HDD
22" LCD Monitor (the extra one assuming you already have one)
Z68 Motherboard
24x CD/DVD +RW /-RW drive (24x Dual Layer DVD burner)
Onboard 7.1 CH High Definition Audio

Total Cost: $1696, so you can still afford a liquid cooler if that's what you're after.

Above is just a suggestion of a recommended setup for your budget, you can find it cheaper if you wish to buy the parts yourself but anything worse than the above setup and you're being ripped off. GL

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[Churlz]

My brother is selling his PC its a beast you want to buy it 2nd hand I can get you the specs. Also he is selling his monitor which is like 26 inchs I THINK I will let you know.

[ToRDarKnoob]

i built my computer can sc2 ultra 50 frames for 500$

[TCPLemminks]

whoops, perhaps my budget is a little too high, I'm sure my parents don't mind^^.

Would there be anything else that I need to add to the list of parts I need?

And yes I am planning to build it myself, that being said are there any good tutorials on building a PC online or anywhere?
However if someone does recommend me a good completed PC I might just be lazy and get that .

edit: Updated the OP with recommendations made by above guys (thx lost)

[breadfan]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

whoops, perhaps my budget is a little too high, I'm sure my parents don't mind^^.

Would there be anything else that I need to add to the list of parts I need?

And yes I am planning to build it myself, that being said are there any good tutorials on building a PC online or anywhere?

LoSt gave pretty good advice. Bear in mind software costs if you are buying it legally. - that will take it up. With that budget, here's some of my personal picks for you (this is what I'd get in your situation) - all from Umart

Hardware

• i7 2600k $315
• Asus P8Z68 $197
• G.skill 8G Ripjaw 1333 $48
• Gigabyte GTX 570 $369
• Noctua NH-D14 PWM Cooler $94
• LGE BluRay Combo $64
• Seagate 2TB SATA HDD $144
• *Intel 320 Series 120GB SSD $215
• **Coolermaster 922M $118

Total: $1564 w/ SSD
($1349 w/out SSD)

*SSDs I feel are optional and don't make that big of a difference for most of my gaming, but I don't play the real latest releases etc. also I go for a 2TB HDD coz I need space man - I'm a media fiend!. Sure SSDs are great, but there's a good chance you won't really need it depending what you're playing. For me, it's something I'd leave out of the initial build and maybe get one later down the track as an upgrade. Same for a 2nd video card (was disappointed that the improvement from SLI wasn't as big as I hoped)

**Don't know that the case will fit the Noctua cooler, I am going from memory but when I bought my Antec 902 it was a tossup between it and a Coolermaster that I think was the 922M. I regretted my decision of the Antec (which didn't fit most coolers). Do some research before choosing this please

Most of the time when it comes to brands for things like video cards and mother boards, I couldn't care less. Some people do. Adjust as you wish

Windows, you have options:
OEM
Home Premium 64bit OEM from Umart: $94 (look at the difference in versions, Home Premium is probably fine)
Full Version
Home Premium from Microsoft.com $299

I think when it comes to Operating System software, you're probably better off paying and not worrying about anti-piracy rubbish if you can find a cheap option. Even the expensive options are well within your budget.

Do whatever you want with Office

If you work or go to uni, it might be worth checking if they have any deal with microsoft. I've bought Office for $15 through a partnership program and Windows for like $100 through uni before)

I just buy my monitors from Dell.com because they are cheap and come with good Dell warranty, and I don't place much importance on having refresh rate <5ms. I have friends that do in which case, look for that

If you go with an SSD in your initital build, you'd spend $1564 on hardware, $94 on OEM windows leaving $312, which could go to your monitor. If you don't skimp on it, you'll use your budget. I'd go without the SSD to start with though, save some money, then add one later if/when you need

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

thx this is brill

[TCPLemminks]

Huge thanks to Breadfan, took a lot of his recommendations into my current build.

Updated the OP with a current build, also added speakers because I forgot about them X_X.

Are there any other parts that I need to build a computer? If not I'll go shopping about for prices tomorrow and tell you guys what I find

[Antel0pe]

hmm... you won't need an i7 if you're going to be gaming. you only need the i7 if you want multi thread rendering. get an i5 2500k and bump your gtx 570 to 580. or get like a corsair h100 for cooling .

Quick Comments

	NOM:	i have a 2500k soo good <3 If you want physics use a i7 but most people don't bother
	TCPLemminks:

[NOM]

awww yeaaaaaaaa

Altec Lansing VS2621
$42 bucks at u-mart & MSY
These are so nice. the bass is strong but not muddy and the speakers are really clear for the price.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

These look sweet, pretty decent price too

[[TA]LoSt]

Originally Posted by Antelope

hmm... you won't need an i7 if you're going to be gaming. you only need the i7 if you want multi thread rendering. get an i5 2500k and bump your gtx 570 to 580. or get like a corsair h100 for cooling .

For his budget, he can afford to upgrade to a 580 without dropping to i5. Again, the difference is minimal and you personally won't notice it unless you're doing a lot of shit at once, but I'd recommend sticking with the i7 regardless. ^_^ Your current build is fine, really similar to the one I suggested and will be a beast PC.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[Crixx]

Pretty much everything above this post I can agree with ^_^.

One thing to consider though is that Ivy bridge is due for release at the end of april (month and a half away), so if you're not in a huge hurry it may be worth the wait.

Other than that, maybe upgrade those G.Skill ripjaws to the 1600Mhz model? I know RAM clock speed doesn't make a huge difference with sandy bridge, but the price difference is minimal and 1600 is pretty much the norm at the moment. And lastly, perhaps consider a better SSD. Read/write speed is ~250MB/s, whereas for a small price increase you can snag an SSD of the same capacity with a read/write speed of ~500MB/s. My suggestion would be this (or the Intel equivalent here).

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[breadfan]

Originally Posted by Crixx

Pretty much everything above this post I can agree with ^_^.

One thing to consider though is that Ivy bridge is due for release at the end of april (month and a half away), so if you're not in a huge hurry it may be worth the wait.

Other than that, maybe upgrade those G.Skill ripjaws to the 1600Mhz model? I know RAM clock speed doesn't make a huge difference with sandy bridge, but the price difference is minimal and 1600 is pretty much the norm at the moment. And lastly, perhaps consider a better SSD. Read/write speed is ~250MB/s, whereas for a small price increase you can snag an SSD of the same capacity with a read/write speed of ~500MB/s. My suggestion would be this (or the Intel equivalent here).

I'm guessing he's not planning on overclocking his CPU therefore won't get any benefit from anything above 1333 (unless this changed with Sandy Bridge or will with Ivy Bridge, but to my knowledge standard un-overclocked core i7 won't utilise memory clock over 1333), so it's a redundant cost

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

Thx for the replies so far guys. I'm planning to go price shopping tomorrow at the umart and MSY near my place.

As a side note, I'm a complete noob at hardware (in case that isn't evident) so I'll most likely not be overclocking or making any other alterations unless you guys would advise it.

Quick Comments

NOM:

i won't be overclocking my rig till quite some time.

[TCPLemminks]

Right updated the OP with lowest prices I could find from MSY vs Umart and added a link to the model because I don't know if they're the ones you guys were talking about (there were so many ).

one dilemma I currently have is with the sound card. I also found this one and I'm not sure if it's better than the one I've chosen.

Also the speakers say 2.1-5.1 only, while the sound card is 7.1. Should I be worried about this? does this mean it's better to get a 5.1 sound card instead?

[Cordance]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Also the speakers say 2.1-5.1 only, while the sound card is 7.1. Should I be worried about this? does this mean it's better to get a 5.1 sound card instead?

7.1 sound has 7.1 out ports (the .1 is the sub). The set up is then 1 under or above the viewed object and Front left/right, center left/right and rear left/right. If you only have 5.1 sound you simply dont use the 2 center channels. 2.1 sound does not have rear or 1 at the object. Basically number of speakers determine how many channels you can use.
Long and short of it you will have out put you dont have enough speakers to plug into all the ports. How ever if you get more speakers later you can use them perhaps. Some speakers will come with an amp like set up so they only have a front rear cable you plug in via the sub woofer as in you will need a new set up to make use of all your sound card can do. I think the price difference is about $30 so I would just get the 7.1 sound card.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

thx for clarifying

[VB_WhiplashJC]

I don't know if that's an issue (I doubt it), but Whirlpool recommends the DG, which is 5.1 so it isn't an issue.

Review

If any dedicated sound card makes a difference vs onboard depends on what you listen to, the speakers you use, and yourself.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

Thx for recommendation

[Antel0pe]

you don't need an i7 2600K if you're not overclocking, get the i7 2600. The only difference is the overclocking. BUT you might want to keep the i7 2600k if you want to overclock later when it might be neccesary.

Quick Comments

	breadfan:	I didn't realise this, but looked it up and you're absolutely right
	TCPLemminks:	Thx for saving me $22, which in today's economy roughly translates to 1 up rep :3

[TCPLemminks]

Thx for the answers so far guys. Just calculated all my parts in and it came up to $1683.

Any recommendations on getting this around $1500 (+/- $50).

[ZCPooSmear]

Intel i5 2500K (This i5 is actually better for gaming due to HT from virtual cores *in i7* it can make it a little choppier. DO NOT get a 2600K unless you plan on doing CAD/rendering etc. its literally a waste of an extra $115 for pretty much an almost unnoticeable difference) $215

GB Z68XP-UD3 $172

GTX570 or 7950 $359/$529

Creative PCI-E X-FI Xtreme Audio $64 (IMHO Motherboards now are more than capable of outputting the same quality audio)

Intel 520 120GB (The Intel 520s are one the best you can get in terms of their reliability/value) - $192

WD BLUE 2x1TB RAID 0 - 2x$105 - $210

16GB(8GBx2) Kit 1333 G-Skill Ripjaws-X $129 (if this is too much then 8GB is $79)

Any DVD drives are fine, there isn't any difference ~$20

For cases I would recommend the Corsair 600T ($200) for this build; but you can go for pretty much anything Mid to Full size

If you want an awesome Dell monitor the Ultrasharps are the BEST. You would probably have to order them from the Dell site. A friend of mine works at Dell gets them for cost price +1% @_@

H80 or H100 depending on what case you get (H100 obviously for full tower cases. H80 Can fit into either)

PSU Corsair HX750 *HX=modular* will be more than enough to run this beast - $188



*Feel free to ask me if you have any technical queries on any of the parts I chose for you

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

kk thx

[ZCPooSmear]

Oh yeah, as for software.
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t h e p i r a t e b a y

[VB_WhiplashJC]

Drop the 2600 to a 2500 and you're sweet.

Crucial m4 should be cheaper (and better on a SATAIII port) if you get it shipped from Amazon.

If you're not overclocking the cooler that comes with the CPU is fine.

Could drop the GPU down to a 560ti 448 special edition for not too much loss of performance.

One thing to check is if you have enough clearance for the RAM heatsinks beneath the cooler. The D14 is massive.

Quick Comments

	NOM:	crucial make good ssd's. d14 is massive but g-skill ram fits fine with it
	TCPLemminks:

[FvRelimzkE]

Originally Posted by VB_WhiplashJC

Drop the 2600 to a 2500 and you're sweet.

Crucial m4 should be cheaper (and better on a SATAIII port) if you get it shipped from Amazon.

If you're not overclocking the cooler that comes with the CPU is fine.

Could drop the GPU down to a 560ti 448 special edition for not too much loss of performance.

One thing to check is if you have enough clearance for the RAM heatsinks beneath the cooler. The D14 is massive.

I pretty much agree with this post.
It sounds like you don't actually need a SSD though, Lemminks. I recommend trying out your PC first, and if you REAAAALLY need to open enormous programs faster, or load a giant game like BF3 fast then you should consider investing in one. They're just not worth the money.

Also, dropping from the GTX570 to a GTX560ti is a worthwhile option if you want to save some money. From the review benchmarks I did on the cards, the GTX560ti generally outperforms the 570 in terms of shader processing, but the 570 still does come out about 13% on top in raw processing power.

As everyone else said, if you don't plan on overclocking then simply don't get an aftermarket cooler.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[Mayo]

i7 2600k
Asus P8Z68
G.skill 8G Ripjaw 1333
ASUS GTX 570
Tt FRIO OCK Cooler
LGE BluRay Combo
Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD
Thermaltake Toughpower XT 775w PSU (875w if u wish)
Thermaltake Chaser MK-I case or Overseer RX-I case

Agree mostly with Pet, changed a couple of things though
(You don't even need 8g of RAM imo)

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

Was wondering when the Tt product placement was coming^^

[NOM]

http://www.umart.com.au/newindex28.p...id=2&sid=29891
this is a little bit cheeper. if you don't want a window. love NZXT

Bit Fenix are ok. But the USB, audio ports on the front are pretty blegh (have had this case for 5 months)
plus voltage problems with the pce slots on the case and the painted MB screws (when i put all te shizz together. and the hardrive bay isn't too flash either (for my ssd) it is on an angle (but it still holds it pretty good, haha) They are pretty cheep for the design though, but I wouldn't really recommend it unless you really want to cut down on price.

http://www.umart.com.au/newindex28.p...id=5&sid=75281
I have this SSD, it more than enough to boot 7. Have about 10gb worth of junk in my downloads folder. and i still have plenty of room.

SSD's arn't that great with games. Most of them load at the same rate or slightly higher rate than a regular HDD. Tried it on SC2

LOL JUST REALIZED YOU FORGOT A PSU WHICH IS REALLY IMPORTANT
most decent cases don't come with one.

http://www.msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=5112
these have modular cables so you don't have left over cable hanging around and it looks cleaner.

if not i'd suggest the one i have.
http://www.umart.com.au/newindex28.p...id=2&sid=28019
Although i could downgrade (because i have a 2500k and a 560 ti) still got a bigger powersupply to be able to overclock and add heaps more stuff in later on.

:P Don't need 16gb of RAM, just try 8gb first and if you feel like you need more add it in later.
just note that you will need 64bit to be able to run more than 4gb

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

I was looking at that while browsing and wondering what it was, thanks

[Antel0pe]

Don't get the Noctua Cooler. You won't be overclocking so you'll just end up with a damn loud cooler. For for something quiet. Try the Corsair H50. It's pretty damn quiet and looks good in a case.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

Thanks noted

[TCPLemminks]

Alright I updated the OP with new suggestions and new price. Added speakers and PSU to the calculation. I also decided to forgo the SSD for my initial build because if I understand what everyone's been saying, it doesn't make much of a different gaming. However if I notice some lag pooping up when I open programmes I might just go out and get 1.

Down graded the sound card to a 5.1 channel because the speakers I'm planning to use are apparently only 2.1 CH if I'm reading that correctly.

Now since I won't be planning on overclocking yet, do I need to buy a Cooler right now?

Also Antelope I could find a shop that stocks the Corsair H50.

[EveTechtron]

Does anyone know what a good SSD and HDD setup is,
I current have my ssd with my OS with programs + bf3
and my hdd has other games + downlods + etc....
But its very unorganized

[NOM]

Originally Posted by Evetechtron

Does anyone know what a good SSD and HDD setup is,
I current have my ssd with my OS with programs + bf3
and my hdd has other games + downlods + etc....
But its very unorganized

My Hard Drive setup is
60gb ssd (os, chrome, system programs, and temp downloads (i sort them on my 1.5tb whenever i'm in the mood))
500gb hdd (programs/games)
1.5 TB hdd (downloads)
it's really unorganized in my 1.5tb drive but at least all the other ones are

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Down graded the sound card to a 5.1 channel because the speakers I'm planning to use are apparently only 2.1 CH if I'm reading that correctly.

Now since I won't be planning on overclocking yet, do I need to buy a Cooler right now?

Also Antelope I could find a shop that stocks the Corsair H50.

H50's arn't as common (think there discontinued) but H60 are very similar (these are easier to assemble)

But yea downgrading the sound is fine. might as well use as many ports as you need. 5.1. speakers are fairly priced. 7.1 is pretty expensive though. It'll kinda be a waste not using over 1/2 the ports

With stuff like coolers imo should be bought after you have at least tried your pc and know what it can and can't do, if you feel like it needs to improve, by all means upgrade. :P could save a fair bit in the long run.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

kk thxs

[[TA]LoSt]

Originally Posted by Evetechtron

Does anyone know what a good SSD and HDD setup is,
I current have my ssd with my OS with programs + bf3
and my hdd has other games + downlods + etc....
But its very unorganized

I pretty much have my OS + Basic Programs like iTunes, Skype, Chrome etc. just programs that don't take up too much space and you have the space to put them on. I don't put any games on my SSD but that's because it's not big enough. ^_^

[EveTechtron]

Originally Posted by [TA]LoSt

I pretty much have my OS + Basic Programs like iTunes, Skype, Chrome etc. just programs that don't take up too much space and you have the space to put them on. I don't put any games on my SSD but that's because it's not big enough. ^_^

Did you just install them on your hdd, without a program files? cause the replay folder is found on my hdd much like other games such as skyrim/bf3/batman. So like ill have two starcraft two folders in the HDD one is the replays one and the other is the installation...

[[TA]LoSt]

Originally Posted by Evetechtron

Did you just install them on your hdd, without a program files? cause the replay folder is found on my hdd much like other games such as skyrim/bf3/batman. So like ill have two starcraft two folders in the HDD one is the replays one and the other is the installation...

My replays folder is in my C: drive (which is my SSD), but the game itself is just in a random 'Games' folder on my HDD.

[TCPLemminks]

can't give rep to NOM..................
Added the total cost without cooler and SSD.

Btw will I also need a network card?

[breadfan]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

can't give rep to NOM..................
Added the total cost without cooler and SSD.

Btw will I also need a network card?

Your motherboard with have a gigabit network port, you will need to buy a wireless card if you want that

The cooler is about heat, I personally wouldn't skimp on it because stock intel coolers are woeful, and even with a small risk that something will totally fry, it would be expensive. I don't know if I'd consider speakers - that's something I'd make a down the road purchase. For now, won't you want to use a headset most of the time? This way instead of getting some crappy set of speakers, you can do some research later, put a bit more money in and have a much nicer end result.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

yeah don't think I do thanks

[TCPLemminks]

Well I do use headphones sometimes, but that's usually when I'm skyping with a friend and playing at the same time (skype chat through headphones, game sound through speakers). My ears get too stuffy when I play with headphones on so I prefer not too. Especially since it's very hot where my room is and My grandma's a nazi who wouldn't let me turn the A/C on.

Can anyone else not click on the page navigation (page 1 of 2) at the top of page 1?

[Antel0pe]

Get a Coolermaster Hyper 612 for your PC then. It's pretty silent and it'll keep your un-overclocked cpu cool . Also if you want ultimate silence, get a Coolermaster Silencio. Looks really sleek and it's good.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[Mayo]

Of course I put in Tt in mine.

We are spending thousands of dollars in SEA SC2 eSports, gotta do my part

Quick Comments

	TAminimat:	:)
	TCPLemminks:	added the Tt PSU to make you happy^^

[EveTechtron]

Did you have to manually do that? or did it install that way?

[TCPLemminks]

Right, considering I don't really have stable internet yet I'm planning to wait until I get stable internet. I might even wait until this Ivy bridge is out and see if that's better to get/prices of other products drop.

[Antel0pe]

Originally Posted by ZCPooSmear

H80 or H100 depending on what case you get (H100 obviously for full tower cases. H80 Can fit into either)

He's not overclocking so that won't be neccesary, neither will the i5 2500K. He could probably skimp on a H61 motherboard as well.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

Quick question,
what's the SSD?

Probably should have included a detailed description of what i want from this com in the OP.

Erm, its mostly just gaming, I have most of my uni work on my macbook.

[ZCPooSmear]

The SSD is a Solid State Drive, its a hard drive made with memory chips rather than magnetic discs. So the speed you get from SSD's are significantly fast than a normal "spinpoint" hard drive. The SSD is 2.5" where as your typical HDD is 3.5"
I suggest you just raid 0 two HDD's, unless Windows bootup speed is of a concern to you. Also maps in SC2, Battlefield etc will load a lot faster from SSD's.

Antelope is right about the H80 or H100, get them only if you plan on overclocking. However getting the i5 2500K over the non "K" version is a better decision in case you do decide to overclock in the future (the variance in price is only about $9) so you don't save that much by getting the non "K"

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[rizE]

http://www.samsung.com/au/consumer/p.../LS23A950DS/XY

change monitor to that, swap the i7 for an i5 2500k (3.4 clock, O/C to 4.8) cheaper free up money for monitor

[[TA]LoSt]

Originally Posted by rizE

http://www.samsung.com/au/consumer/p.../LS23A950DS/XY

change monitor to that, swap the i7 for an i5 2500k (3.4 clock, O/C to 4.8) cheaper free up money for monitor

You're kidding right? lol

[rizE]

totally, no not really

[ZCPooSmear]

......no joke there buddy

The extra $115 is nothing more than extra 4 virtual cores. which is practically useless for gaming.

[VB_WhiplashJC]

He's already said he isn't overclocking. The monitor is nice if you want 3D I guess, but personally I'd just pocket the difference.

Pretty much everyone has said get the 2500 or lower.

[TCPLemminks]

A lot of the reviews are saying the i5 2500k is good for overclocking, which I don't plan to do yet, maybe when I'm a bit more tech savvy. So I think I'll stick with the 2600 for now.

[ZCPooSmear]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

A lot of the reviews are saying the i5 2500k is good for overclocking, which I don't plan to do yet, maybe when I'm a bit more tech savvy. So I think I'll stick with the 2600 for now.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/320525-28-2600-2500k

There, that might save you an the extra $100

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[rizE]

you don't get the monitor for the 3D lol... the 120HZ in LED is what your after, but im a fan of shmick screens, your build is pretty good anyway

[VB_WhiplashJC]

Get the 2500 then, Lemmi. Same stock performance as the 2500k. The 2600 is a waste of money for gaming.

Quick Comments

	ZCPooSmear:
	TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

Alright thanks guys, I think I'll get an SSD then, faster map loads sounds good.
As for monitors I think I'll stick with the one in the build

[TCPLemminks]

Rawr NECRO....jks
I postponed building this PC because I found out I wouldn't have internet until the 17th of May (9 MORE DAYS!!!). Since that is only 9 more ******* days away I updated this thread with current prices and am looking for advice on new products that have been released since then (I heard the Ivy Bridge is pretty good).

Budget still the same, however would like to get it round $1,500 ± $350.

I also added a mechanical keyboard that I am planning to get. Any spare funds left over will be donated to sc2sea because you guys are so awesome^^.

[NOM]

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...=shine&x=0&y=0

If you'd rather not have pink keys.
$130 is a really good price though

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

Yeah but pccasegears has a $12 shipping to Brisbane T_T. I don't mind pink keys, they're not that pink

[VB_WhiplashJC]

A lot has changed since march.

Apparently Amazon won't ship the 128GB m4 to Australia now.

Ivy bridge has been released but at your price point I think it make sense to stick with the 2500 (currently Ivy bridge is more expensive for little performance boost).

The 570 might still be the way to go, but the 670 is probably a couple of weeks away at most.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

thx fr spotting that

[TCPLemminks]

Changed the monitor, updated SSD price (T_T).

So is the Ivy bridge not worth considering?

[Bloodmyst]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Changed the monitor, updated SSD price (T_T).

So is the Ivy bridge not worth considering?

If your looking at purchasing a Sandy Bridge CPU. The 2500k will suit all of your needs. Doesn't matter if your tech savvy or not, look up a guide in how to overclock it. It's very easy. Just make sure if you do, to get a decent air cooler for the CPU.

Now onto Ivy Bridge, if you are looking at the equivalent of the 2500k in Ivy Bridge. Yes it is faster. The question is; Will you notice it? No. The excitement around Ivy Bridge was in the overclocking area of things. Unfortunately with the smaller die shrink and the amount of transistors they have added, it heats up like a b^tch! The Sandy Bridge CPU's are much more stable if you wish to overclock.

Also, in terms of games. It's really only SC2 that is CPU heavy, I just bought one and it's plenty imo, I haven't even overclocked it yet. Most other games, especially FPS games are more rely much more on what type of GFX card you have.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[|Erasmus|]

It is a little more expensive, but you listed the Corsair HX650 as a PSU option... it is a seasonic built unit (so extremely high quality), fully modular, and comes with a 7 year warranty (iirc... even seasonic who manufacture them only sell it with a 5 year warranty...)

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

It's actually a little cheaper, CHANGED (sry Mayo)

[TCPLemminks]

Ok well the games I'm currently thinking of getting are GW2 and Diablo 3, I'm assuming the current build is way more than enough to runs these games at max.

So if I was to overclock it in the future, would the fan I currently have be sufficient enough?

[|Erasmus|]

Yeah... anything more expensive than that is just for a few more degrees to OC as far as possible, or to do it really quietly. That should be fine for a decent overclock, though.

[neon]

on SSD's, definitely.

Intel SSD 180GB 330 Series SATA III 6Gb/s, 25nm, MLC, read/write speed 500/450MB/s $235 (Umart).

http://www.umart.com.au/pro/products...id=2&sid=91954

I would recommend that, install all your most used applications and games on it and your life will just be better. Everything you open for the first time loads faster, which is just fantastic from my experience. I'd rather be doing whatever I want to be doing than waiting for it to happen, does add up over time!

I currently have 2 x 40GB SSD's in RAID0 and the performance has degraded quite a lot since I first set it up, once you can have HDD TRIM and RAID0 (the chips are close !) this wont' be such a problem. However just 1 drive for now would be fine, just try work out how much space you require as it sucks to run out, in spite of the easy "just buy bigger later" or "just get a second video card later" and "just over-clock later" I don't really see people ever following through with it and it IS a hassle. (not saying no one does, but just generally speaking).

GW2 and D3 I see as games that will definitely benefit a lot from faster load times, the more you play the more return on investment you get !

Get 16GB Memory, in spite of everyone saying you don't need even 8GB, it's not that expensive, I only have 4GB in my current build and my system often has to page things to disk so 8 minimum, but with the cost 16GB, I can't really think of any reason not too unless you really want to save money(which is fine!) but the idea of completely disabling page file sounds nice.

Get a Hydro cooler, if not for the over-clock (which I can show you how to do safely if you'd like) but I also find it's really a lot quieter which for me is something I personally like. H80 is probably fine, I got a H50 when they first came out and it has had no issues, one thing to note as a rookie to PC building, installing a heat-sink is usually one of the most daunting tasks as they sometimes require a bit of effort, and this cooler (if it's like the H50), may require some assistance installing and a bit of force. I'd do it for the noise factor alone even if I didn't over-clock, but just giving you some perspective.

Most on-board sound cards these days are pretty good, I'm curious as to why you would require an alternate with those speakers ? I know you can get some really low latency sound cards which are good if you mix or something however I don't think you were taking that angle, would like to know more on this (however sound cards aren't really my area since the Creative Audigy was the last card I ever bought).

as for the OS, if you don't mind bugs and want to be ahead of the 8-ball a bit use the windows 8 'consumer preview' (read beta) till you have to buy it, it's free and as you use your OS probably most of the stuff you do on your PC, I'd suggest to buy it when it comes out if you like it. (edit: also for AV use Microsoft Security Essentials, very well rated and free and obviously integrates well into windows and doesn't' use up a lot of memory, not sure if it comes with Windows 8 (havent gotten it installed myself yet, however Alan seems to be warming to it as he uses it at work).

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/w...nsumer-preview

Just though I'd offer my perspective on things for you to consider, if you want a hand building it I can probably lend one, however it might not line up too well with your schedule (usually when I buy parts I want to install them 10 minutes ago, not wait for some guy to come around! haha!)

Also try do a really neat cable job, (get cable ties if you want, hardware store), a lot nicer if you need to adjust things later, however confirm all your parts work and system posts first as it takes a while and if you need to take things back out, can be quite tedious! so I'd suggest test it all, then rebuild it with cabling in mind and later on you will have better access to things for whatever reason might be required.

Don't skimp on peripherals (monitor) as it's such a big part of what you look at, read some reviews, have a look at a few in person if you can, I can't really make any recommendations on current gen however as I haven't looked in a while.

this is longer than I intended, uh,

night.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

<3 Nathan

[|Erasmus|]

Oh yeah, I wanted to make that same point with the sound card... A $38 sound card seems pretty silly. On-board is not so horrible these days. If you -really- care about audio, you'd want something better than a cheap sound card anyway (and if you're spending more in the ~$100 range, I wouldn't recommend a sound card unless you are desperate for your mic to use it too, get something like a FiiO E7/E10...)

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[VB_WhiplashJC]

Read the review I linked to on the front page.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[|Erasmus|]

That's very dependent on motherboard. I've experienced motherboards with shitty sound that hiss a lot, and lots of other random 'noise' generated by the other electronics on the motherboard, and others which have been 'fine'... just okay sound comparable with a cheap sound card (no obvious issues with noise or anything).

So I'm not convinced that 1 review means a hell of a lot. Unless you are desperate for fake 5.1...

But purely for those issues of noise and stuff, I like external solutions with audio anyway (but they normally cost more than $40)

[TCPLemminks]

Yeah I'm kinda on the wall with the sound card, but for only $38 extra it seems like its a huge upgrade compared to onboard sounds.

As for 16g of ram I'm assuming you mean this one?

[neon]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Yeah I'm kinda on the wall with the sound card, but for only $38 extra it seems like its a huge upgrade compared to onboard sounds.

As for 16g of ram I'm assuming you mean this one?

not quite,

This board has all the features without all the extra cost, though new boards come out all the time and always going to be a better one on the horizon Z78 is next:


Asrock Z77-EXTREME4 Z77/4 x DDR3/2 x PCI-E3.0/4 x SATA3/6 x USB3.0/HDMI/D
http://www.umart.com.au/pro/products...id=5&sid=89524

This CPU is good and a bit faster, the board has more bandwith basically but if you weant the tech details use google. or this http://bit.ly/KUKGK8


Intel Core i5 3570K LGA1155 CPU 3.4Ghz 6Mb Cache Ivy Bridge
http://www.umart.com.au/pro/products...id=5&sid=92172

and for memory 2 x 8GB usually overlocks betters and has less problems than 4 x 4 (due to heat, power consumption and just more parts that could fail!).

G Skill 16G(2x8G) DDR3 1600MHZ PC3-12800 CL9(10D-16GBXL)
http://www.umart.com.au/pro/products...id=5&sid=81955

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

Ivy Bridge is only around a 5%-10% increase in performance, which is apparently useless for gaming.
As for the SSD, is it really worth the price hike (around $50)?
Took your advice on the new board, not too sure about the extra Ram though.

[Bloodmyst]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Ivy Bridge is only around a 5%-10% increase in performance, which is apparently useless for gaming.
As for the SSD, is it really worth the price hike (around $50)?
Took your advice on the new board, not too sure about the extra Ram though.

- When purchasing an SSD make sure to check out the reviews. I managed to dodge a bullet buying a particular OCZ SSD that was by checking out the reviews. Turns out they have problems when installing an OS (Bluescreens). Just find one at a reasonable price and make sure to check the reviews. I just bought my new PC and this is the SSD I have and it runs damn great;

Corsair Force Series 3 60GB SSD

In regards to how much space you need. You really only need to put your OS on it plus the "regular applications/games" that you access all the time. For me 60GB is plenty. Granted I only have 5 GB remaining on the disk. But all data is stored on the HDD.

- In regards to RAM, go either 4GB or 16GB. Don't bother with 8GB of RAM. (cbf giving reasoning behind it, for those who are interested there is google).

If you go for the latter, once you set up your computer. Download RAM drive and allocate 4GB to it. The 8GB you have left, 4 GB for the CPU and 4GB for the GPU. Done and dusted!

- As I've said before, don't bother with Ivy Bridge. Go Sandy Bridge and just make sure you get the version with the unlocked multiplier. 2500k is sufficient, however if for some reason you are not happy with the speed, you can overclock it. They're overclock friendly and run much more stable then Ivy Bridge.

- The ASrock Z77 Extreme-4 M'board is very much decent as well. Great value for money here.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[VB_WhiplashJC]

You won't notice a difference between SSDs, just go for the cheapest reliable one that's big enough.

You can always not get the sound card then buy it later if you feel like you're missing something - it's not like storage where you'd have to reinstall things.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

What's wrong with 8gb RAM? Tried googling it but got no definitive answers.
As for the SSD, do you put every data file on it for the applications you want on it?

[Bloodmyst]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

What's wrong with 8gb RAM? Tried googling it but got no definitive answers.
As for the SSD, do you put every data file on it for the applications you want on it?

I just did a quick search;

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/289664-30-ever-16gb

The posts from "Wamphryi" pretty much sums it up. Keep in mind, if you plan on streaming the extra memory definatly helps out also.

The SSD, yes. You just install the OS and applications on there. Any data stored by the OS or Applications will be stored on your HDD. So for your OS as an example;

- Redirect your "my documents folder" to the HDD.
- Saved games from SC2, redirect this folder to your HDD.
- Movies are saved to the HDD.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

alright I think I got it

[TACeeSerps]

My Budget was around $1800 when building my new PC. As of yesterday I now have all the parts to build it.
I already own two screens and a copy of 64-bit Windows 7 so I dodged a bullet there.

Here is my build:

• Processor - Intel i7-3770K - $365 @ MSY
• CPU Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - $39 @ MSY
• Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H - $185 @ MSY
• Memory - G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3-1600Mhz (BRL) - $105 @ MWave
• HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black 1.5TB - $135 @ MWave
• SSD - Intel 520 120GB SSD - $184 @ PCDIY
• Graphics Card - Gigabyte GTX670 OC - $519 @ MWave
• Case - Antec 1100 - $135 @ MSY
• PSU - Corsair HX750W - $187 @ MSY
• DVD Drive - Samsung DVD Drive - $19 @ MSY

Grand Total (with Thermal paste & shipping from MWAVE) - $1906.43

PCDIY isn't located in Brisbane yet, although they have very similar pricing to MSY and the only reason I got my SSD from there was MSY were out of stock. I originally was going to go with a Crucial m4 128GB but there hasn't been in any in SA for at least week, and won't be in until late next week.

Games I will be playing on this -

• Diablo 3
• Starcraft 2
• Guild Wars 2
• SW:TOR (only because I forgot to cancel my recurring sub, so they charged me for another 3 months on Friday)

Will also be overclocking the i7 to around 4.5-4.8ghz and I am planning to start being more active with Youtube/Twitch.

A good video series I've used in the past for help with building PC's is -

+ Show +

Newegg.com DIY

Part 1 - Choosing your components

+ [HERE] +

Part 2 - The Build

+ [HERE] +

Part 3 - Installing Windows & Finishing Touches

+ [HERE] +

Hopefully I've helped in some way
TheCSerps

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TACeeSerps]

Also forgot to mention this website that helps out a lot when picking the parts for your new PC:

pcpartpicker.com

It helps you choose compatible components, offers lowest price from 5(I think) online stores. Gives benchmarks and ratings for components. Make sure you select Australia (or New Zealand) in the top right so you don't get all excited about how cheap the prices are (Australian Premium Pricing - ).

Only thing it doesn't include is MSY and UMart but you might be lucky and find it cheaper.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

Great website, thx

[TCPLemminks]

Do you guys think I should go for the H60 ($94) or the H80 ($137) for cooling?

[|Erasmus|]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Do you guys think I should go for the H60 ($94) or the H80 ($137) for cooling?

Why these in particular?

They're good but price/performance and noise still favours a good air cooler, afaik.

[TCPLemminks]

Originally Posted by |Erasmus|

Why these in particular?

They're good but price/performance and noise still favours a good air cooler, afaik.

Such as the Cooler Master Hyper 612 PWM Cooler that I currently have? Will that still be better than liquid cooling in terms of overclocking?

[|Erasmus|]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

Such as the Cooler Master Hyper 612 PWM Cooler that I currently have? Will that still be better than liquid cooling in terms of overclocking?

It really depends on how hardcore you want to OC and how much noise you are comfortable with.

I'm not familiar with a CM 612 model. I know the CM 212 a few years ago had a very good rep for allowing pretty solid overclocks for such a cheap cooler, but it could get a bit noisy when an OC'd chip was being heavily used for any length of time

Some of the top end air coolers like the noctua D14 though is a little cheaper than those water coolers, and last I checked still beat the latest models for performance and noise. But that is a very big and heavy cooler and you need to make sure your case has the clearance for it, etc.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

KK thx I'll check with the guys by the store, they should know if it fits shouldn't they?

[VB_WhiplashJC]

You don't need either, waste of money since you aren't overclocking. Try the stock cooler, if it's too loud then after market air for ~$40 will be fine.

I also wouldn't bother with the RAM drive.

[TCPLemminks]

Oh I'm planning to overclock now, though maybe only when it starts getting old I guess.

[Bloodmyst]

TBH, from what I've read on forums. You can reliably overclock the 2500k to 4.5Ghz with air cooling.

As you said, you probably won't overclock, until your system becomes of age. So I's scrap the air cooler for now and just use the stock standard one. No point buying stuff you aren't going to use.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

So with my current system go with the stock cooler now, and when I'm planning to start overclocking look for an air cooler. Probably better since new models will come out / older models become cheaper.

I'm also in the market for a new mechanical keyboard, prefer ~$140. Cherry Browns.

[|Erasmus|]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

So with my current system go with the stock cooler now, and when I'm planning to start overclocking look for an air cooler. Probably better since new models will come out / older models become cheaper.

I'm also in the market for a new mechanical keyboard, prefer ~$140. Cherry Browns.

If you want browns, you need to look at Filco/Ducky/Leopold.

Otherwise if you can settle for blacks, I like the Steelseries 6GV2. Minimalist like the Filco/leopold stuff. No silly macro keys or lights or anything, just a well built mech keyboard. And that one can be found <$100 AUD.

Quick Comments

	Bloodmyst:	Filco! Thats the one I was talking about.....
	TCPLemminks:	I was thinking Flico's too

[Bloodmyst]

I've got a Razer Blackwidow Mechanical Keyboard. It's pretty good. The only complaint I have about it is how noisy it is. When I bought it, I didn't realise you could get a silent version :s

Maynarde has the silent version and he was pretty happy with it iirc.

Really though, I don't think it matters much what mechanical keyboard you get. Tomato = Tamato. If you do care about the noise factor though, I'd recommend the Razer Blackwidow Silent Edition. I think they are fairly pricey though, can't remember how much I paid for mine now.....

There's also a mechanical keyboard (iirc) which is sold on this site, pretty sure you can buy custom keys for it as well. I think thats a pretty neat feature, I love to change my "~" key to a Terran logo key :P

Quick Comments

	TCPLemminks:	Looks good, but for $230 0_o....
	Ruski:	Blackwidow mechanical keyboards so sexy

[TCPLemminks]

Anyone know where I could get Filcos?
I've seen the Ninja version (keys on the sides) for $150, the standard one is around $160+.
I'll also start ordering the build on Friday sans cooler. So are there any last minute improvements I can make to this build?

Quick Comments

|Erasmus|:

auspcmarket are the only ones afaik, and at the prices you listed. can get them imported, but im not sure if it's cheaper.

[TargAFan#1]

http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/products/66/?page=1 Should be some here I think.

[Bloodmyst]

You've check the memory is on the "Memory Compatibility List" for the M'board right? Iirc, it's on there.

Also, that's a pretty decent price your getting that GFX card for.

Anyhow, it's a decent system

[TCPLemminks]

erm the model of memory on my build (F3-12800CL10D-16GBXL) isn't on the Memory Compatibility List.
Should I be looking for a new 16GB RAM then?

[|Erasmus|]

No...

It just means they didn't specifically test that model number. Unless it has some weird memory clock or latency it won't be a problem, in 99% of cases.

[Takiah]

My partner owns Centrecom Computers (Ballarat not Melbourne). I can ask him for quotes etc if you need. He can also build & ship to you

[TCPLemminks]

I'm confused at how it's says it's compatible with the intel Z77 chip set, yet the motherboard is not listed on the qualified qualified motherboard list

Thanks for the offer but I'd prefer not to ship the entire computer as I will have to get extra insurance on it won't I? + send it back if it was damaged.

[TCPLemminks]

Made a post on the Whirlpool forums and here are the adjustments they suggested.

Current build

• Processor: i5 2500K ($225)
• Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 ($153)
• Graphics card: Gigabyte GTX 670 ($519)
• Sound card:On board is good enough since the Z77 extreme4 has Realtek
  ALC898 (Comparison)
• SSD: Crucial 128 GB m4 ($170)
• Hard drive: WD 3.5" Blue 1TB WD10EALX SATA3 32M 7200rpm HDD ($99)
• Ram: G Skill 8G(2x4G) DDR3 1600Mhz PC12800 RL 9-9-9-24(CL9D-8GBRL) ($59)
• DVD Drive: LGE BluRay Combo ($54)
• Case: Coolermaster 922M ($118)
• Monitor: Benq GL2250M 21.5"W LED 5ms VGA DVI TILT GlossBlack ($132)
• Speakers: Altec Lansing VS2621 2.1 ($42)
• PSU: Antec HCG 520 ($79)
• Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w Transparent 12cm ($39)
• Mechanical Keyboard: Ducky DK9008 SHINE (Blue, Cherry Brown switches)($149)

Current cost: $1,838 + $12 Shipping = $1,850

[VB_WhiplashJC]

So much for your budget...

The 670 is overkill for sc2@1080p. Really any card over ~$220 will give you over 60 FPS with maxed out settings.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

What about games coming out?

[TCPLemminks]

Well I'm not planning to just run sc2.

Also is 1mb/s upload fast enough to stream?

[VB_WhiplashJC]

Well yeah, a 670 will destroy anything you want to play, if you can afford it then go for it.

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

[TCPLemminks]

Well I started ordering parts and like a giddy schoolgirl was just about to order everything willynilly before Marinehero came in and offered his advice. HUGE shoutout to him for saving me $50 or so^^

means parts are ordered!
Current build

• Processor: i5 2500K ($229)
• Motherboard: Asrock Z77-PRO3 ($119)
• Graphics card: Gigabyte GTX 670 ($515)
• Sound card:On board is good enough since the Z77 extreme4 has Realtek
  ALC898 (Comparison)
• SSD: Intel SSD-330 Series 120GB ($152)
• Hard drive: WD 3.5" Blue 1TB WD10EALX SATA3 32M 7200rpm HDD ($99)
• Ram: G Skill 8G(2x4G) DDR3 1600Mhz PC12800 RL 9-9-9-24(CL9D-8GBRL) ($59)
• DVD Drive: LGE BluRay Combo ($54)
• Case: Coolermaster 922M ($118)
• Monitor: DellTM ST2220L ($135 (sale))
• Speakers: Altec Lansing VS2621 2.1 ($42)
• PSU: Antec HCG 520 ($79)
• Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w Transparent 12cm ($39)
• Mechanical Keyboard: Leopold FC500R (Cherry Brown switches)($109 + $10 insurance)

Current cost: $1759 + $12 Shipping = $1,771

Quick Comments

	TCPYoonA:	Can'
	sRDreaM:

[TCPLemminks]

So I am currently really torn between the Leopold FC500R ($121) and the Ducky DK9008 Shine ($161) (shipping included).

[sRDreaM]

Originally Posted by TCPLemminks

So I am currently really torn between the Leopold FC500R ($121) and the Ducky DK9008 Shine ($161) (shipping included).

I own a Leopold FC500R Blue switch also owned a red switch before and have tried the Ducky Shine brown switches

Here are some of my thoughts:

Leopold FC500R - The quality of the keyboard is really good it is more of a simple mechanical keyboard but the interesting feature is that it's portable with the removable usb connector this allows you to easily take it around LAN parties and also if you ever accidentally step or damage the cable you can easily replace it. The build quality is actually better then Filco imo because of the improved key stabilizer (Yes I have used a Filco before) I don't want to go into to much details about that but you can search it up. I would recommend this keyboard as a Filco alternative and for people who want a non gimmick "gaming" mechanical keyboard.

Ducky Shine - You pay extra for LED lights and some extra features if you like looks I would recommend this the features are actually quite useful depending on the situation the only problem why I didn't buy the ducky shine over the Leopold was because I wanted a mechanical keyboard that last for avery long time and I was afraid that the led might die out over time also I wanted some portability the removable usb from the leopold makes me feel more comfortable of having it for a long time in case the cable ever gets damaged I can easily go out and buy a new one instead of replacing the keyboard as a whole.

In the end your decision comes down to personal preference just ask yourself these questions

Do I want a keyboard with good looks (led etc) = Ducky Shine
Do I just want a simple high-end mechanical keyboard? = Leopold save $$ too

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

kk thx I'll get the leopolds then

[TCPYoonA]

I was originally going for the FC500R myself, until I decided to bite the bullet and wait for the 700R to come out (currently de-listed on PCCG). Pre-ordered and paid, now just waiting for it to arrive T__T

I'd say if you like the backlighting + those extra shortcut keys on the top right for the ducky, then go for it! My friend got a Ducky Shine just recently, but unfortunately it was DOA (one of the LEDs was broken, and the 'i' key wouldn't register) but they happily exchanged it the day after, and the replacement one has been working fine . A lot of people on the WP forums seem to have a good experience with the shine, if that equates to anything :P

If you can live with a minimalistic keyboard (I'm sure you can ) then just go with the FC500R. The only thing I don't like is the caps/scroll/numlock indicators being om the space on the top right. I suppose it would look rather bland if there was nothing there, but i prefer having some sort of LED indicator on the specific keys. Just my preference though.

If you don't need the numpad, then you can join me in the wait for the 700Rs to arrive on our shores :P

Quick Comments

TCPLemminks:

Numpad are awesome though -_-

[TCPLemminks]

KK a huge thank you to everyone who contributed here, all parts have been ordered and I should be able to build it this weekend (sans graphics card because they are currently out of stock but should have some by next week). guys.
With remaining funds going to Diablo 3, that leaves around $150 which will be donated to this site .